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| The place of His last rest... |
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| His official car as the President of Ghana |
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| Tree planted by Nelson Mandela at the park |
Nkrumah helped his country gain independence from Britain on March 6, 1957 and became the country's first prime minister. He was ousted from power on February 24, 1966, years after successfully transforming Ghana into a republic. He died in exile in the Republic of Guinea in 1972.
The mausoleum in his honour inside the park is bronze plated. Ghana's former president, Jerry Rawlings, approved the vault, designed by Ghanaian architects, but it was not completed until 20 years later. Rawlings inaugurated it on July 1, 1992. The mausoleum, Nkrumah's third place of rest, is well decorated and symbolises the country's independence, tourism and governance.
"Kwame Nkrumah can never be forgotten, [because of] what he stood and lived for. If you check around, there are trees planted by the heads of states of countries of the world to mark their presence here. They come here to pay homage to a man who died believing in what he believed," says Peter Ebi, a tourist guide at the park. "I think your former President, Olusegun Obasanjo was here too, but he didn't plant any tree like others."
Beautiful monument
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| The Nigerian team...it was a nice |
The highly rated park on Ghana's tourism site list is worth visiting. It is close to the country's National Museum in Accra, about two kilometres away in fact. The beautiful monument is flanked by the tomb of Nkrumah and his wife.
Non-Ghanaian adult tourists pay 10 cedi; teenagers, three; and children one cedi to visit the site. Ghanaian adults however pay two cedi; teenagers, one cedi and children 0.5 cedi, while parking space attracts a payment of one cedi. This, however, shouldn't stop the non-native from visiting the place. I was referred to the Ministry of Interior or Arts when I queried the difference in prices. A small museum behind the monument houses the properties of the late nationalist. These include the furniture he used as a student at Lincoln University. The pieces furniture are in the middle of the hall and shine as if they have just been polished. The casket in which Nkrumah was first buried, his photographs while in office and outside the country schooling, and household utensils he used at the state house are among the memorabilia on show. Visitors are however barred from photographing the items.
Historical land
Ironically, the mausoleum is located in the Old Polo ground, a forbidden area for Ghanaians during colonialism. The Ghanaian High Court buildings, City Hall and an art and craft market where art works and other curios can be purchased, are adjacent to the park.
The site was reportedly chosen because Nkrumah declared the country's independence at the very place. Ghanaians were once forbidden to visit. A huge bronze statue of the man reportedly about 10.8 feet high is on a pedestal at the exact spot where a platform was raised for the late Pan Africanist to deliver his declaration of independence on the eve of March 6, 1957.
Opposite the statue are two large rectangular fountains, each containing seven statues of men bearing royal flutes. The display, explains the guide, symbolises the expectation of a perfect liberation of Ghanaians by the declaration that was pronounced there.
Moving round what Ebi says is about six acres of land containing monuments, all I wanted to ask the departed sage was: is this Ghana of your dream? You declared the independence of your people and a nation here but 53 years later, is Ghana really a free nation?
Though others may perceive him differently, Nkrumah is the symbol of a free nation and a democracy to every Ghanaian, living or dead.
Earlier, Sunday Attah, another guide at the centre had tried to rationalise why the huge plot of land is reserved for the memory of one single man. "It is a way to celebrate a man that stood and stands for what he believes in. [Nkrumah] fought for the growth of Ghana and what our country is today. The unity of the entire African continent." As I prepared to depart the park, I could not but ask Ebi why the administrators decided to leave Nkrumah's presidential car out in the open, at the mercy of rain, wind and sunshine. I told him how the slain Murtala Muhammed's car is well kept in Nigeria. His response was that the Ghanaian government is still working to renovate the park, including providing a befitting relaxation spot which is presently lacking.
Though it was a great ‘Akwaaba' (Welcome to Ghana) experience visiting the park. However, waiting at the entrance for about an hour before anyone attended to our team wasn't funny; but I killed time by buying some local coconuts and drinking the water.
Driving out of the park, I decided that this was not yet bye-bye Ghana. I will possibly return with my children, to let them into the Africa of their ancestors.
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